Above is a little background information for you about your garden variety azalea, the Azalea indica. Here is another tidbit: there are two categories of evergreen Azalea indica for our gardens, sun and shade. Now that just makes lots of sense, doesn't it? Not all azaleas need to be in the shade, but that is the favorite spot for the Belgian indica azaleas. Luckily, there are those that are sun lovers: the Southern indica azaleas.

There are many hybrids of both the Belgian and Southern indicas, too many to mention here. What that means to a gardener is a wide choice of flower color--solids or bicolor; and flower style--frilly and ruffled or simple and elegant. There is also a range in bloom times, bloom sizes, plant size and growth habit (which can be from 2-3 feet with dense, small foliage or up to 8 feet with an open, lacy growth habit). With a comprehensive selection, your garden could have azaleas blooming from late winter into late spring, in the sun and in the shade.

Azaleas love acid soil, good amendments, and fertilizers. When planting your azaleas, be sure to mix the native soil of your garden with an azalea (acid) planting amendment or with 40% peat moss and 40% pine bark. They like good drainage but do not like their roots to stay too wet or dry out. Plant them so that the root crown is about 1 inch above the soil line. Once they are planted, mulch, mulch, and mulch.

San Gabriel Nursery & Florist has specialized in growing azaleas for many years. Come and see our beautiful selection of azaleas that are in full bloom right now!

Hybridized in the 1970's, the most popular SGN introduction is the "Mission Bell" azalea which was named after its characteristic bell-shaped flower and its origin in San Gabriel, "The City with a Mission".

Daylight Saving Time begins at 2 am on Sunday, March 8, 2009, and ends at 2 am on Sunday, November 1, 2009, so be sure to set your clocks forward one hour! On the second Sunday in March, your clocks should be set from 2:00 a.m. local standard time, to 3:00 a.m. local daylight time. Previously DST began in April and ended in October, but this is the third year that Daylight Saving Time has been extended by four weeks. The Energy Policy Act of 2005, which enacted the extended period, is expected to save 10,000 barrels of oil each day due to reduced use of power by businesses during daylight hours, and by individuals in lighting their homes.

Ironically, not all places in the United States observe Daylight Saving Time; Hawaii and most of Arizona do not use it, and Indiana waited until 2006 to adopt the usage of it.

The original concept is attributed to Benjamin Franklin in 1784. In a whimsical letter to a French journal, he said that Parisians could save thousands of francs a year by waking up earlier during the summer because it would prevent them from having to buy so many candles to light the evening hours.

We remember to change our clocks by the phrase "Spring forward, fall back." As spring begins on March 20, 2009, a mere 12 days after the onset of Daylight Saving Time, why not embrace this season of renewal, and replace the batteries in all of your smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors. This simple act will reassure the safety of your family; properly working detectors save thousands of lives each year.

If you have ever wondered how to get some of the same great flavors you find in top restaurants, consider planting the secret weapon that fine cooks employ--a chef's garden. Get the most out of your garden by adding not only beauty but an endless bounty of flavor as well!

A good chef's garden incorporates the attributes of every location in the garden to produce a variety of flavorful food. Start with a boring fence line. Instead of flowering vines, consider attaching a few trellises and planting a variety of different table grapes.

To block out the neighbor's windows and create privacy, plant fruit trees. You can harvest apricots and cherries in June; nectarines, peaches, plums and pluots in July and August; and apples, pears and persimmons in September and October.

Semi-shaded areas are a great place to plant berries. If you have the room to allow them to roam, consider planting blackberries, boysenberries, and raspberries. Are you looking for something a little more formal? Consider blueberries.

Save the sunniest location for your vegetable garden. Remember to plant "fruit" and "root" vegetables for summer. Plant "leaf" and "flower" vegetables in winter. Don't forget to add a little color with tasty nasturtiums--and save some space for a crop of strawberries, artichokes, and horseradish. Are you short on space? No problem. Herbs do wonderfully in containers--and no chef should be without them. You'd perhaps be surprised how many vegetables can also be grown in containers. And don't forget dwarf fruit trees!

The key to creating a great chef's garden is to look at every available location in your garden with the eyes of a chef. The possibilities are endless and the rewards are delicious. Are you getting hungry, now? Then don't delay, start planning your chef's garden today.

Click to print this article.

When xeriscape is mentioned, many people think of cactus and sand--or rock gardens. Mind you, both cactus gardens and rock gardens can be quite attractive. But that is not all xeriscaping allows. You can have a xeriscape landscape that is fully planted, colorful--and water-conserving. Nor do you have to use only drought-tolerant plants. The idea is to reduce overall water use by grouping plants with similar needs together--so you can have one area that uses some extra water and another area where you need no more water than nature provides. If you grow edible plants, the same principle applies.

Advantages of xeriscape

• Water saving: Using native and other drought-tolerant plants can significantly reduce water use.
• Money saving: Reducing water use can lower your water bill. Xeriscaping can also reduce maintenance costs--while adding to the beauty and value of your property.
• Time saving: xeriscape landscaping can significantly reduce the time you spend watering, fertilizing and mowing. (Buy a hammock--you'll have more time to use it.)
• No worries: It's nice to be able to go on vacation for a few weeks and know your plants will still be alive when you return.

The seven principles of xeriscape:

• Plan and design for water conservation and beauty from the start.
• Create practical turf areas of manageable size and shape, and appropriate grasses.
• Select plants with low water requirements and group plants of similar water needs together. Experiment to determine how much and how often to water the plants.
• Use soil amendments as needed by the site and the type of plants used.
• Use mulches to reduce evaporation and to keep the soil cool.
• Irrigate efficiently with properly designed systems--and by applying the right amount of water at the right time.
• Maintain the landscape properly by mowing, weeding, pruning and fertilizing properly.

If you've just moved in to a new place and want a whole new landscape, consider xeriscape. We'd advise you, in that situation, to hire a professional landscaper to help you design the landscape--and to do the hard work for you. Doing a whole landscape at once is too much for most individuals. But you can use the "bit by bit" approach or a simple substitution approach, and move your landscape gradually to xeriscape.

Perhaps you have a problem area where it's difficult to keep your plants growing well, an area that is difficult to irrigate, or a lawn area that's hard to mow or keep green. Look at these areas as candidates for the first moves to xeriscape.

One of the major things to look at when xeriscaping is, "Can I get rid of some of that lawn?" Out of all the things we grow in our yards, turf is usually the biggest overall water-user. If you live in an area with a homeowner's association that requires you to have a certain percentage of lawn, at least make your long-term plans to get the lawn down to the minimal acceptable percentage (or get the rule changed).

When planning a xeriscaped area, keep in mind that curves are more natural (and easier to mow around) than sharp angles. Also look at the soil type, the amount of sun or shade, elevation, and ease of access.

Do you have some plants that already do well in that area, even if neglected? Keep them for xeriscaping in that particular micro-climate in your yard. Remove, or move, plants that are not doing well and amend the soil before planting any new plants. Then mulch.

Keep in mind that even xeriscape plants will need extra water when first planted--until established. Once established, however, they will need much less maintenance than other areas.

You may find you like xeriscape so much you'll continue till your whole yard (or as much as possible) is xeriscaped. You can then lie in the hammock you bought with the savings on your water bill, sipping a cool drink on a hot summer day, and watching your neighbors sweating over their vast expanses of turf. Have fun!

Click to print this article.