Daylilies, members of the Liliaceae (lily family), are some of the easiest to grow and most popular of the garden perennials. Because they range in size, color, and design application, there is a daylily for almost everyone and every garden. Like their name Hemerocallis, "beauty for a day," the individual daylily flower lasts only one day. What is so wonderful? They are borne on long arching stems with the flowers in clusters and bloom in succession over a period of two to six months from mid-spring to late, depending upon the variety.

Daylilies are versatile in the garden and landscape. They can be very dramatic in a perennial border or in the foreground of shrubbery plantings. They can be spectacular as foundation plantings, cover an unsightly bank or serve as accents beside a pond. These flowers are more dramatically effective when planted in clusters of three or more to create sweeping drifts or a mass effect. Not only do the flowers sway in the breeze, so does the light, strapping foliage. Motion in the garden!

The flowers of the species come in vibrant shades of yellow, orange, and red, with a much more varied color selection in the hybrids. Plants have been developed with flowers in cream, gold, scarlet, pink, apricot, purple, violet, and plum. There are also hybrids, which repeatedly bloom throughout the summer; they bloom early, then after a short rest, bloom again, constantly repeating the process.

Don't miss out on two new varieties of daylilies from Monrovia Nursery "Golden Zebra' that has dramatic foliage color and 'Starburst Red', an evergreen daylily. These new introductions are gorgeous!

Choose a sunny or lightly shaded location for your daylilies. The best flowers will be produced when they are planted in a sunny location, unless you live in a very hot climate; in this case, choose a lightly shaded area. Daylilies also enjoy a regular feeding every two months during the growing season to maintain their bloom color.

They are tough, adaptable, vigorous-growing plants that will thrive in nearly all kinds of soil; however, the best is soil that is moist, but well drained, fertile and humus-rich. Whether your soil is light and sandy or heavy clay, add planting mix. Mulch the soil with bark or cocoa mulch in the spring and in the fall to minimize weeds and retain soil moisture.

Here at San Gabriel Nursery & Florist, we have numerous daylily hybrids for you to choose from (Availability subject to change):.

Black-Eyed Stella
Derby Bound
Golden Zebra (New! from Monrovia Nursery)
Little Biz
Pure Light
Star of India
Starburst Red New! from Monrovia Nursery)
Vohann

One of the most graceful plants that can enhance your outdoor garden is also one of the easiest houseplants to grow: the calla lily, which isn't really a lily, nor is it a calla, although it is related to the latter genus. In reality, the calla lily is the common name for the zantedeschia genus; just as our family trees can be at times daunting in their complexities, so too with our favorite flowers. The genus calla was originally named by the famous Swedish botanist Carolus Linnaeus, but when the German botanist Karl Koch realized that it had become apparent that the genus needed to be split up, he honored his fellow Italian botanist Giovanni Zantedeschi by naming the new genus after him. The Europeans quickly recognized the value of this new flower, and it became a popular favorite for both weddings (as it signifies magnificence and beauty) and funerals.

What a unique and lovely houseplant the calla lily is! It loves 70 degrees Fahrenheit, which is the temperature at which most households are kept. Add a sunny location, evenly moist soil, and a water soluble fertilizer applied according to package directions during periods of new growth, and you'll have a very happy member of your family! If you are starting from bulbs, plant them 2 to 3 inches deep, and space them 12 inches apart. You might want to employ several containers if you are enjoying them as houseplants.

As the blooms begin to wither, remove them, and gradually reduce watering until the foliage dies. Rest the tubers for 2 to 3 months without moisture, then repot and lightly water until the new plant is several inches above the soil line. If you prefer them indoors, no matter where you live, you will be able to enjoy near year-long blooms. Or, you can also enjoy them indoors, then move them outside during warm weather for garden enhancement.

We know that we can enjoy this fascinating flower indoors. Now we're going to talk about how to enjoy the calla outdoors. Perennial bulbs, or rhizomes, calla lilies can grow to a height of from 1.5 to 4 feet with long, rich green leaves. While white is normally associated with this flower, they actually come in a wide variety of colors, from white to pink, purple, yellow, orange, and even black! They are tolerant of most pests and diseases, and are suitable for cut flower gardens, or planting en masse in beds, low borders, patio pots or planters. As with most plants, they will appreciate a cover of mulch, which holds in the moisture and keeps weeds at bay.

While their normal blooming time is listed as late spring, this northern gardener finds that they thrive throughout the summer outdoors, until close to the first deep frost. If you live in USDA zones 8 through 10, they are perennials outdoors and will not require indoor storage. In colder climes, after the foliage has withered away, dig up the long-fingered tubers, storing them in a breathable bag in perlite, peat moss, or vermiculite. When frost danger has passed, you may then transplant them outside, fertilizing with a 5-10-10 or 5-10-5 mixture.

One caveat: as calla lilies contain a poisonous ingredient called oxalic acid, keep children and pets away from your plants. With this simple precaution, you'll have a perennial that you may enjoy indoors and then place outdoors after the ground has warmed.

We have these Calla Lilies available now:
Gem Rose
Yellow
Lavender
Orange-Yellow
Garnet Glow
Sangria

By Tamara Galbraith

If there isn't a shape, size or color of dahlia that takes your breath away...well, you need to keep looking, because there's one out there that will.

Dahlias (Dahlia variabilis) are one of the most diverse types of flowers in existence. What's even more amazing is that most varieties start from an ugly, potato-looking tuber before developing, swan-like, into a tall, lithesome beauty.

The color range alone is outstanding. While developing a true blue dahlia continues to evade hybridizers, gardeners can find just about everything else: red and white peppermint striped petals, peach with maroon tipped petals, pure white, pale yellow, burnt orange, soft pink...the list goes on.

Dahlias range widely in flower shape and petal arrangement, as well. There are spiky cactus dahlias, playful round pompon dahlias, waterlily dahlias, peony dahlias, orchid dahlias, and more. Some are considered "formal" as opposed to "informal." Some have petals which curl inward, while petals on others curl under, or maybe not at all.

The list is endless and, of course, most gardeners can't -- and shouldn't -- stop at just one plant. The dwarf varieties make great border accents, and also tend to do well in hotter, drier regions of the U.S. All dahlias prefer full sun, but make plenty of room for them - some varieties can get up to six feet tall!

Lastly, dahlias are fabulous cut flowers and make a colorful, festive arrangement for any occasion.

By Tamara Galbraith

When it's summertime and you're working on a tan, your plants may begin to take on a pale, pasty look. What gives? Say hello to the fungus disease known as powdery mildew.

A common condition found on plant life throughout North America, powdery mildew is characterized by spots or patches of white to grayish talcum-powder-like growth. Fortunately, it is usually more of an effect than a problem itself. In other words, in addition to treating the plant, you'll probably want to take a look at the surrounding conditions and make some adjustments.

The primary way to keep powdery mildew (and other fungi) from attacking your plants is prevention. Start now.

First and foremost, make sure you give plants plenty of room. Good air circulation goes a long way. Trim plants that get crowded or bushy. Avoid overhead watering and do your watering in the morning so any water that does get on leaves has a chance to dry. If your plants are getting spray from a lawn sprinkler system, try moving the sprinkler a bit further away. If that's not possible, you might consider replacing your plants with more mildew-resistant plants or varieties.

If you do get powdery mildew, to halt it in its tracks, spray the affected plants with a good fungicide.

How often should I water my potted plants?

Answer:

Outdoor potted plants tend to dry out more quickly and require more water than plants planted in the landscape. This is because potting soils are lighter in composition and less compact than garden soil. The size of the container also limits the water holding capacity. Watering potted plants once a day or even twice daily may be necessary, especially if the weather turns hot and windy or your containers are in full sunlight.

Indoors, most potted plants tend to be over-watered. They generally don't need to be watered more than once or twice per week.

The important thing is to check moisture levels often. If the potting soil appears pale or cracked, or feels dry below the soil's surface, then it's time to water. If plants are wilted and droopy (or just in a plain old bad mood). then they're already seriously stressed and in need of immediate watering and potentially a trip to a therapist.

The use of a moisture meter can be very helpful. If you don't own a moisture meter, get one--it's better than using your fingers to check, and you'll cut way down on manicure bills.

The idea is to water thoroughly but allow enough time between waterings for the soil to begin drying out. If the potting soil remains soggy for too long, air will be forced away from the roots and your plants may suffocate or drown.

Don't let plants sit in standing water. If a saucer is used under a container, make sure that it does not remain wet for more than an hour or two after watering. Poor drainage and damp soil conditions favor root-killing disease fungi that can develop as root rot and cause the plant to die.

If a potted plant gets too dry, stand the container in a bucket of water, so that it can soak water right up into the soil. This is a better method than watering with a hose or can, as the water will run straight through and around the dry soil where it has shrunk away from the side of the pot.

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